Taking a road trip this past Christmas made me realize that being born and raised in Cupertino, California, I have been privileged in ways that I wasn’t even aware of. Recently, we watched the Ken Burns documentary on the National Parks and I became very interested in seeing the parks, as many were so close to my own back yard. While we knew Sedona would be our destination for Christmas, the Ken Burns documentary got me thinking that we could take a road trip AND see a couple of National Parks along the way. We would stop at the Mojave National Preserve on the way there and on our return, we would visit Joshua Tree National Park. What I saw and learned along the way was far greater than the vast lands we drove through or any of our National Parks.
Barstow
Our first stop was Barstow, California, which is about a 7 hour drive. It’s pretty clear when you leave the Silicon Valley and are onto Interstate 5 — the land of wide-open space. While I knew this about I-5, driving through Central California seemed very desolate and the few towns we came upon seemed vacant. I was pleasantly surprised with the Holiday Inn Express, as the accommodations were clean and more than comfortable. I found it strange to see outlet stores when there was really not much else in Barstow, but thought maybe this is a gateway to some place else? At breakfast the next morning, we met the only other person in the dining room, an older gentleman from Barstow. I asked him about the industry in town and what people did for a living. He said it was mostly railroad and that he had worked for the railroad for 35 years and was about to retire in January. This made sense given what we had seen driving down. He talked to us a little bit about the Mohave Desert, how long it might take us to get there and what we might expect to see along the way. We congratulated him on his retirement and got back in the car headed for the Mohave.
Mohave Desert
We knew we wanted to explore some of the Mohave National Preserve, but we were not really sure what was out there. As we came upon the entrance to the park, there were two options: 1) Mitchell Caverns or 2) Hole in the Wall. I had read that Hole in the Wall was a good place to do some hiking and had some interesting sights as well. My husband had read about the Mitchell Caverns. We could kind of see the Caverns along the rough dirt road, which seemed to go nowhere in both directions, so we decided to go there. It took us about 15 or 20 minutes at 25 miles per hour on the dirt road, and up this hill to get to the Park office. How interesting that this place exists out in what seems to be the middle of nowhere. Six dollars to take a tour of the cavern and the tour started in an hour. Okay…we decided to wait for the tour and check out the area a little bit. While there isn’t much there, the fact that we were up on a hill provided us with a spectacular view of the Mohave desert. While we could see the main highway, there were miles and miles of desert.
Jack and Ida Mitchell were the first owners of the caverns back in 1934. Next to the visitor’s center was the house that Jack built. The house looks like an igloo of sorts, made out of brick and mortar. Later we learned that Jack made his own mortar. There was a short nature walk that highlighted the plants (and some trees) that grow in the desert. It seems the beauty of the Mohave Desert is the fact that any plants can survive in those harsh conditions.
One of my favorite things to do on vacation is talk to the people we meet along the way and learn about their stories. We spent some time talking with the California State Park Ranger and learned about his love for the State Parks, as well as his disdain for the State budget. While he had spent a lot of time in the State Park system in Southern California, he had been at the Caverns for about 4 years. I was surprised to learn that his home was 4 hours away, and he only went home once a month. He rented one of the 5 houses (not sure I’d call it a house, it was more like a shack) up there on the hill from the State. It seemed to me that the State should be more than happy to let him live there, given his work was there –but, this was not the case. He told us that the closest burger was an hour away and that the other park ranger that worked with him lived about an hour or so away, in what we would learn was the closest town. Here we were out in the middle of the Mohave Desert, with no real amenities, and there were people that loved living there. This was a foreign concept to me . My husband summed it up nicely when he said, “there are some people who like living on the fringe.”
We took the tour of the Caverns, which I would highly recommend! What an amazing display of stalactites and stalagmites. I learned that the stalactites, with a C, are the formations
that grow out of the ceiling. Stalagmites, with a G, are the formations that grow out of the ground. When they meet, they form a column, which is very cool. An interesting tidbit about the caverns — Oliver Stone filmed a scene in the movie, The Doors, and evidently ruined a portion of the wall in the cavern. And, while he was fined for the damage, it resulted in the State Park refusing any future access of this kind. So, you’ll have to go in person if you want to see it. And, it’s worth it.
London Bridge
There wasn’t time to explore more of the Mohave, with daylight limited and a drive still ahead of us to Kingman, Arizona. Somewhere along the way to Kingman, we made a pit stop and my husband said he thought the London Bridge was somewhere near by. “Huh? I said, ” London Bridge? Isn’t that in London?” He looked it up on the car’s GPS navigation system and found it was 20 miles down the road in Lake Havasu City, Arizona. Not sure if it was a tourist attraction that required payment, or if it was just available for all to see, we asked the station attendant if it was worth the 20 miles down the road. We were thrilled with her response, “This is the best time to see the London Bridge!” She went on to say it’s the best time, because it is cold outside (not a lot of people go at this time) and the bridge (along with the village of shops under it) is decorated in lights for Christmas. We took the detour to the London Bridge and not only was it fun to see, it peaked my curiosity. I wondered, how in the world did the London Bridge end up in Lake Havasu City of all places? Well…it seems the City of London sold the bridge back in the late 60′s, when it was no longer structurally sound to support the modern traffic across the River Thames. Some guy, named Robert P. McCulloch, bought the bridge and brought it to the planned community he built in 1964. He had the exterior granite blocks of the bridge numbered, such that they could be put back together in the same order. Some of the numbers on the granite are still very visible. All-in-all, a very cool (and very cold) sightseeing adventure.
Kingman, Arizona
I think Kingman was the town that had the most profound impact on me. Much of the trip to this point was spent on or along side the famous Route 66. Why I thought Route 66 was
going to be a wonderland of sights, I don’t know. Maybe it’s the song that had me thinking you really could get your kicks on Route 66. Not so much the case. Again, we drove through what seemed like a vast land of nothingness. There weren’t many towns along the way and when we did stumble upon one, it was small and appeared as though no one was home. Driving into Kingman was much of the same. While it was clearly bigger than what we had seen along the way, it too looked deserted. We used the car’s navigation system to find a place to eat and thinking it would be easy, what we got back was a wealth of fast food restaurants. We found a place that looked like it might work and as we pulled in, I got scared. The place looked like it was a falling down shack. There were very few lights and it was connected to an alley that led to what looked like hotel rooms, or apartments and a man walking in the alley, who looked like he had a cast on his face. Yes, a cast…or a Freddie Krueger mask, we couldn’t tell. It was enough to freak me out! Fortunately, there was a big, well-lit, barn of a place nearby–so we pulled in there. We went inside and thought the place was closed, because it was so empty. No one was at the hostess stand, so we walked into the bar area to find a few people sitting inside. A football game was playing on the big screen TV, so we found ourselves a booth and sat down. With menus in hand, we saw we were in the Dambar Steakhouse. Everything on the menu had the word “dam” in front of it. I do believe it was probably the best meal option in Kingman. Not only that, we did get our kicks there, laughing about the dam meal.
We stayed at another Holiday Inn Express and again found the accommodations to be clean and comfortable. This morning, we wanted a good cup of coffee and so I did a search on the Internet to find a local coffee shop. I am not a big fan of Starbucks, and particularly in small communities such as this, I like to give my business to the locals. Plus, the locals are more fun to talk to and I get to learn more about the city and community I’m in. I find a coffee house a few miles down the road and we pull in to what appears to be the “downtown” area. There are only a handful of cars on the street and parking was more than easy right in front of the coffee shop. It was 11am on a Sunday morning and we are the only people in the place. We order our lattes and I ask the kid (probably in his late 20′s), “where is everyone?” He tells me that they usually get a church crowd around noon or so. I go on to ask him a dozen or so more questions about Kingman — What do people do here? What is the industry? Why does everything look so deserted? How did he end up here? etc., etc. Again, I hear about the railroad, but to my surprise, he tells me that Kingman is the meth (methamphetamine) capital of the U.S. Unfortunately, this is not the first city where we have heard meth is a problem, and even more unfortunate is that it wasn’t to be the last city where we heard it’s a problem. This young man goes on to tell me that he was born and raised in Kingman and he helps his mom out at the coffee shop. He told me about his girlfriend, who is the daughter of a Pastor, and together they work with the church to help troubled teens in the area. It seems he was a troubled teen and wished there was someone to have helped him when he was that age. I was moved by his story. Again, I think about how spoiled I am to live where I live, have the access to the things I have access to, and here this kid lives in Kingman and in spite of his situation, is working to do something good with his life. He was very gracious as we chatted him up for 30 minutes or so. Before we left, he told us about a place in Flagstaff, near downtown, called Heritage Square, that we should stop and check out. He said there were lots of shops and places to eat in the area as well. We wished each other well, and we were back in the car headed for Sedona, by way of Flagstaff.
Flagstaff, Arizona
We stopped in Flagstaff for lunch and found Heritage Square and a great brew pub, where the food was outstanding. I was so excited to have a salad, after the less than nutritional choices we had to choose from the prior two days on the trip. The downtown area of Flagstaff was situated right next to the railroad tracks. Again, more railroad. We walked around town a bit and there were a lot of artsy, kind of boutique (if you will) shops. While we only spent a couple of hours in town, it was nice to visit a town that was bustling and had more activity than where we had previously been.
Sedona, Arizona
The drive into Sedona is just amazing. In stark contrast to the nothingness of the Mohave Desert, Sedona is an abundance of red rock mountains, set against the backdrop of a jet blue sky. We had been to Sedona before, but honestly, I had forgotten how beautiful the place really is. We spent 6 nights in Sedona, including Christmas. It snowed 2 days before Christmas and while it didn’t stick around for very long, it made the scenery even more beautiful — cold, but beautiful. On Christmas Day, we awoke to clear, cold and sunny weather. We went for a hike UP Bear Mountain–and I do mean UP. The views from atop that mountain were stunning. We were headed up and we passed a couple of hikers as they were headed down the mountain and one of the women said, “it gets more beautiful as you go.” We didn’t think it was possible, but found out she was right. We sat high atop the mountain, ate the lunch we had packed and pondered how small we are compared to the big, beautiful splendor of mother nature.
Later that evening, we went into Talaquepaque for dinner at a nice restaurant, which was recommended by some of the locals. Unfortunately, the food wasn’t as good as we had hoped it would be (maybe the hike had something to do with how hungry we were), but sitting at the table next to us were 3 young Indian people. I started chatting them, because that is what I do — and was fascinated to learn their story, as well as learn more about their culture. One of the young men lived in Minnesota and the other young man and his wife lived in Tuscon. Both the men were in the information technology profession and moved out of Bangalore to come work in the States. They shared much about the culture and history of India, including the tradition of arranged marriage. The couple had been married just about a year and told us that they didn’t even get to meet each other until they were engaged. Wow! This was another foreign concept to me. Again, I was able to gain some perspective on how priviledged we are to live in the United States, and the choices we have everyday as Americans. It is not to say that the Indian people don’t have a choice, it’s just that the world they were raised in is different from the world I was raised in. I found them so interesting that I didn’t want them to stop talking, but realized that the restaurant was closing up and that they probably wanted to get back to their hotel, as they had an early morning, all-day trip planned to the Grand Canyon.
Many of the people we met in Sedona were from someplace else. Many of the locals I spoke to had come to Sedona on vacation and never left. We visited a few more National Monuments, Tuzigoot, Montezuma’s Castle and Montezuma’s Well. The Tuzigoot is a dwelling
built on a hillside and Montezuma’s Castle is a 20-room dwelling, built in to the side of a cliff. Both dwellings were built by the Sinagua farmers back in the 12th Century. It was interesting to learn about the Sinagua (meaning without water in Spanish), their culture and to ponder how they were able to build these places. One of the volunteers at the monument approached us and asked us what we thought it would be like to live as a Sinagua farmer back in the 12th Century. We pondered ideas together and he shared his knowledge of the people and dwellings with us. Interesting, too, was that he was originally from Texas. He came to Sedona on vacation and after 10 visits in 2 years, he and his wife moved there. He’s now retired, volunteering at the Montezuma Castle National Monument.
Joshua Tree
We left Sedona the day after Christmas and headed for Joshua Tree. While I’ve never been to this part of California, I had an image in my mind of a single, lone tree against a backdrop of
sand. Suffice it to say, I really didn’t know what to expect. It wasn’t long before we were out of the splendor of the red rocks and back into the abundance of wide open space and very little, what I would call, civilization. Joshua Tree is about 30 minutes outside of Palm Springs/Palm Desert, so driving in, we could definitely see the lights of the bigger cities. Our hotel was in Yucca Valley and at 3 or 4 stories high, it was just about the only tall building in town. I noticed that there was a lot of space in between buildings and businesses. Many places were closed as we rolled in about 6pm, which is so not the case here in the Silicon Valley. Finding a place to eat was a bit of a challenge, but in spite of the Mexican restaurant looking deserted and only having one other couple dining, the meal was very good. It’s becoming more clear to me at this point that looks can really be misleading.
The next morning, we set out for Joshua Tree National Park. Seeing Yucca Valley and the surrounding area in the daytime is a little more dramatic than seeing it at night. The only thing green are the Joshua trees. There is no grass, no flowers, just Joshua trees and sand–not so completely far off from my initial impressions. A quick stop at the visitor’s center and we realize, we are not the only ones with this idea. We pick up a map of the park and head for the entrance. We pay the $15 vehicle fee (good for 7 days) at the entrance and we’re off to explore.
The thing that struck me about the park itself is how the decision was made to preserve it. When I looked across the vastness of sand, rock formations and Joshua trees, I wondered, how did someone have the foresight to preserve these 800,000 acres of land? It didn’t strike me as the most beautiful place I had ever seen, certainly the red rocks of Sedona were more beautiful. Yet, thanks to the Antiquities Act of 1906 enacted by Theodore Roosevelt, Joshua Tree became a National Monument in 1936 and was only elevated to National Park status in 1994. The park has been inhabited for more than 5,000 years and boasts some of the most interesting geologic features in the desert. There is much to be learned about the geology of this area, such as the tectonic and erosional forces that shaped the scenery we saw. Similar to the Mohave Desert (of which Joshua Tree is a part), the wonder is in the nature that survives these harsh conditions. I wondered how the people in the area survive. I can imagine that the spring is even more beautiful with the wildflowers in bloom, but I can’t imagine what the heat of the summer sun brings.
We spent about 4 hours in the park, driving out to Keys View, where we could see the San Andreas Faultline. We took a hike out to Skull Rock, which was pretty cool, because the rock really does look like a skull. We drove through campgrounds and saw people camping — another foreign concept to me, especially in the desert in December. For those interested in rock climbing, this place is surely the Mecca.
Leaving the Desert
We left the desert and drove to San Diego to visit family for a couple of days and what I found interesting, besides the many cacti, were the recession
101 billboards. The billboards say things like, “Bill Gates started Microsoft during a recession.” And, “It will be over long before those responsible are paroled.” I have never seen any such billboards in the Silicon Valley. And after seeing the abundance of vast land, vacancy and desolation on this trip, I wondered how bad it was out there that billboards were needed to re-energize Americans. And, who was behind the billboards? I did a Google search to find out, and learned that the person behind the campaign chooses to remain anonymous. It seems the person was depressed with the way Americans were responding to the economic tailspin and decided to pay for billboards across the country–2,000 I think so far. Yet, still, no signs of recession 101 here in the Silicon Valley. I wonder how the locations are selected for such billboards?
Final Impressions
I know this blog has been long, but the trip was long and full of new people, places and learnings. It’s made me think about people and my surroundings in a different way. As people, we really are all the same, it’s just our surroundings are different and the decisions we make based on our experiences in those surroundings. I heard a line in a 3 Doors Down song recently that captured how I felt about this. The line says, “My friend, this life we live is not what we have, it’s what we believe in.” Now, I’m left pondering what I am going to do as a result of this experience in 2010. More to come on that….